How to Change a Tyre: A Step-by-Step Guide with Safety Tips, Tools, and Real-World Advice

A flat tyre rarely happens at a convenient time. Maybe you’re late for work, rain is tapping on the windscreen, and the warning light just blinked to life. Take a breath, you’ve got this. Learning how to change a tyre is a life skill that saves time, money, and stress. This guide turns a frustrating roadside hiccup into a confident, calm routine. We’ll cover the exact steps, all the safety measures, the tools you’ll need, how it differs for various tyre sizes and vehicles, and when you should call in help.

Quick-Start: The 60-Second Overview

1.      Get safe: Pull over on level ground, hazard lights on, handbrake set, wheels chocked.

2.      Prep: Retrieve spare, jack, wheel brace, and locking-nut key.

3.      Loosen nuts (just a quarter-turn) while the wheel is on the ground.

4.      Jack up at the correct jacking point until the tyre clears the road.

5.      Remove nuts & wheel.

6.      Fit spare, hand-tighten nuts in a star pattern.

7.      Lower car and torque the nuts properly.

8.      Stow tools, drive carefully, re-check torque after 50–100 km.

That’s the essence. Now let’s go deep so you can do it safely, efficiently, and with confidence.

Safety First: The Non-Negotiables

Changing a tyre is straightforward, but the environment can be risky. Before touching a tool:

Choose a safe spot: Level ground, firm surface, away from traffic. Avoid soft dirt, grass, or a slope.

Hazards on: Turn on hazard lights. Use a reflective triangle/cone 30–50 meters behind the vehicle if you have one. Wear a high-visibility vest at night or in poor weather.

Parking brake set & car in park/gear: Auto in P, manual in 1st gear or Reverse.

Chock the wheels: Use wheel chocks or bricks/wood on the opposite side of the flat to prevent rolling.

Passengers exit: Have everyone stand well away from the roadside.

Never crawl under the vehicle when it’s supported by a jack alone.

Bad location? Call for help: On a busy motorway, blind corner, extreme weather, or limited visibility, call roadside assistance. The safest change is the one you don’t perform in a dangerous situation.

Tools You’ll Need (and Nice-to-Haves)

Essentials (usually supplied with the car):

• Spare wheel (full-size or space-saver) or a temporary mobility kit (sealant + inflator)

• Jack (scissor or bottle)

• Wheel brace (lug wrench)

• Locking-wheel-nut key (if you have locking nuts)

Highly recommended:

• Torque wrench (to tighten wheel nuts correctly)

• Wheel chocks

• Gloves (for grip and cleanliness)

• Flashlight/headlamp

• Mat/kneeling pad (saves your knees)

• Tyre pressure gauge

• Tyre inflator/portable compressor

Good to have:

• Short breaker bar (extra leverage for stubborn nuts)

• Penetrating oil (if nuts are seized)

• Hand wipes and rubbish bag

• Rain poncho

• Reflective triangle

Understanding Tyre Types and Sizes (So You Use the Right Spare)

Tyre size looks like this: 205/55R16 91V

• 205 = width (mm)

• 55 = aspect ratio (sidewall height as % of width)

• R16 = rim diameter (inches)

• 91V = load index & speed rating

Why it matters:

• Your spare must fit the hub and clear the brakes. Many cars include a space-saver (narrow, temporary spare) designed only to get you to a tyre shop.

• Some vehicles (performance cars, EVs, large SUVs) have big brake calipers; not all spares fit.

• Run-flat tyres can sometimes be driven for a short distance at low speeds with zero pressure, check your owner’s manual for exact limits.

• Directional tyres (with a V-pattern) must rotate in the correct direction; check the arrow on the sidewall.

• Staggered setups (wider rear tyres) or different front/rear sizes can complicate spare placement; many cars supply a single universal-fit spare sized to clear all corners.

Step-by-Step: How to Change a Tyre

Video courtesy of Cars.com

1) Prepare the Vehicle

• Pull off the road onto flat, solid ground.

• Hazard lights on; reflective triangle out if you have one.

• Engage the parking brake; keep the car in Park or 1st/Reverse (manual).

• Chock the wheel opposite the flat tyre (front vs. rear).

2) Gather Tools and the Spare

• Retrieve the jack, wheel brace, and locking-nut key (often in the boot under the floor or side panels).

• Place tools within reach but not where you could trip over them.

3) Check the Jacking Point

• Consult the owner’s manual or look for jacking point marks along the pinch welds under the sills.

• The wrong point can damage the body or slip dangerously.

4) Loosen the Wheel Nuts (But Don’t Remove Yet)

• Before lifting, crack each nut loose about a quarter-turn while the tyre is still on the ground (provides resistance).

• Use your locking-nut key if applicable.

• If a nut is stuck, use a breaker bar or carefully apply your body weight, no jumping on the wrench; keep control.

5) Jack Up the Vehicle

• Position the jack under the correct jacking point.

• Turn or pump the jack to raise the tyre just 2–3 cm off the ground, no need to go higher than necessary.

• Keep hands and feet clear of pinch points.

6) Remove the Wheel

• Finish removing the nuts; keep them in a clean tray/pocket so they don’t roll away.

• Lift the wheel straight off the hub (it can be heavy; bend your knees, not your back).

• If it’s stuck due to corrosion, a gentle heel tap on the tyre’s sidewall can free it—ensure the car is stable first.

7) Mount the Spare

• Line up the wheel with the hub and slide it onto the studs (or align with hub holes on studless cars).

• Hand-thread the nuts finger-tight. Start with the topmost stud to support the wheel.

8) Snug the Nuts in a Star Pattern

• Using the wheel brace, snug each nut in a star (criss-cross) pattern to seat the wheel evenly.

• Do not fully tighten while the wheel is in the air.

9) Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Nuts

• Carefully lower the jack until the tyre rests firmly on the ground.

• Tighten the nuts to the manufacturer’s specified torque (commonly in the 90–140 Nm range for many passenger cars, but always check your manual).

• Use a star pattern until each nut clicks on the torque wrench. Over-tightening can damage studs; under-tightening can let the wheel work loose.

Important: Avoid lubricating wheel-stud threads with oil or anti-seize unless the manufacturer explicitly allows it lubrication can lead to over-torque even at the same wrench setting.

10) Check Pressure and Stow Equipment

• Use a pressure gauge to confirm the spare is at the correct PSI (printed on the tyre or your door jamb sticker).

• Pack away the jack, wrench, and flat tyre securely.

• Reset TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System) if your vehicle requires it; some systems reset automatically after driving.

11) Drive Conservatively and Retorque

• If using a space-saver spare, obey its limits, typically max 80 km/h (50 mph) and limited distance.

• After 50–100 km, re-check lug-nut torque; wheels can settle slightly as you drive.

Special Situations and Vehicle Types

SUVs, Utes, and Vans (Heavier Vehicles)

• Heavier vehicles need more effort and may require a higher-capacity jack.

• Lug-nut torque specs are typically higher, follow your manual closely.

• Watch wind gusts; large bodies can catch wind and feel unstable on a jack. If conditions are unsafe, call for assistance.

Low-Profile or Large-Diameter Wheels

• Lower sidewalls are stiffer; wheels can be heavier.

• Be extra careful aligning the spare to avoid scratching the rim or cross-threading nuts.

• If the spare is a space-saver, handling will feel different, steer and brake gently.

Run-Flat Tyres

• Many run-flats allow limited driving with zero pressure (e.g., up to 80 km/h for a set distance).

• Some cars don’t include a spare, you may have sealant/inflator only. Check your manual for your exact system.

EVs and Hybrids

• Often have no spare and rely on sealant + inflator kits to save weight and space.

• Tyres may have higher load ratings; spares (if supplied) must match.

• Maintain cautious jack placement—battery packs can run beneath the floor.

Dual Rear Wheels (Light Trucks)

• Flats can hide on inner wheels; inspection is trickier.

• Heavier duty jacks and service support recommended. Consider professional help roadside.

If You Have a Repair Kit Instead of a Spare

Some cars provide a canister of tyre sealant and an inflator:

1. Rotate the valve to the top; remove any embedded sharp object if safe.

2. Attach the sealant tube to the valve; inject sealant per instructions.

3. Inflate to the recommended PSI.

4. Drive immediately for 5–10 minutes to distribute sealant, then re-check pressure.

Limitations: Sealant works for small tread punctures, not sidewall cuts, large holes, or blowouts. Tyre shops may charge extra to clean sealant; some TPMS sensors can be affected.

Aftercare: Don’t Skip These

• Get the punctured tyre inspected: A professional can tell if it’s safely repairable (usually punctures within the tread, not the shoulder or sidewall).

• Rebalance and alignment check if you felt vibration prior to the flat.

• Replace or repair the spare (if it’s a full-size spare you used).

• Reset TPMS and confirm no slow leaks.

• Retorque nuts after 50–100 km as noted.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Jacking on a slope or soft ground

• Fitting the spare backwards (some wheels have a directional face, check orientation)

• Not loosening nuts before jacking

• Over-tightening or under-tightening nuts

• Forgetting the locking-nut key at home

• Driving long distances on a space-saver (it’s temporary)

• Standing in traffic lanes, always work from the non-traffic side when possible

Who Should (and Shouldn’t) Change a Tyre?

You can likely change a tyre yourself if:

• The location is safe (good shoulder, visibility, firm level ground).

• You can handle moderate lifting (15–25 kg wheel/tyre).

• You can kneel and work at ground level.

• You have the correct tools and spare.

Consider calling roadside assistance if:

• You’re on a motorway with narrow/no shoulder, at night, or in heavy rain.

• You have mobility or health concerns.

• The car uses a specialist wheel/locking system you’re unsure about.

• The wheel is corroded to the hub and won’t budge safely.

• You don’t have a spare or your kit won’t seal the puncture.

Families, new drivers, and fleet operators:

• Practice at home in daylight on a flat driveway. Time yourself.

• Ensure every driver knows where the tools are and how to use them.

Troubleshooting: When Things Don’t Go Smoothly

Stuck wheel nuts:

• Use a longer lever (breaker bar).

• Apply penetrating oil and wait a few minutes.

• Keep the wrench snug and push steadily, avoid sudden jerks that could tip the jack.

Wheel won’t come off the hub:

• Lower the car so the tyre just touches the ground; wiggle firmly side to side.

• A gentle kick to the tyre sidewall can break corrosion (only if the jack is stable and safe).

Stripped or cross-threaded nuts:

• Stop. Forcing it risks stud damage. Call for assistance to avoid costly hub repairs.

No spare + torn sidewall:

• Sealant won’t help. Call for a tow or mobile tyre service.

Tyre Care to Prevent Future Flats

• Check pressures monthly (and before long trips). Under-inflation is the #1 tyre killer.

• Inspect tread for nails, cuts, bulges, or uneven wear.

• Rotate tyres per your manual (often every 8,000–10,000 km).

• Avoid kerb impacts; slow on potholes.

• Replace tyres at 2–3 mm tread for wet safety (legal minimums vary, but more tread = safer).

• Check the spare yearly age, cracks, and low pressure are common.

Environmental and Legal Notes

• Disposal: Old tyres should be recycled through a tyre shop or local council facility, don’t dump them.

• Legalities: Obey local regulations on triangle placement, spare tyre speed limits, and minimum tread depth.

• Insurance: Keep receipts if roadside assistance or towing was needed.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1) How long can I drive on a space-saver spare?

It’s meant for short distances only, just enough to reach a tyre shop. Obey the speed printed on the sidewall (often up to 80 km/h) and replace/repair the flat ASAP.

2) Do I really need a torque wrench?

Strongly recommended. Correct torque prevents warped brake rotors and damaged studs, and keeps the wheel secure.

3) Can I repair any puncture?

No. Repairs are generally safe only for small holes in the tread area. Sidewall or shoulder damage, or very large punctures, usually require replacement.

4) My car has run-flats, do I still need a spare?

Some owners prefer carrying a spare, but many cars with run-flats omit spares to save weight. Run-flats let you drive slowly for a limited distance; confirm specifics in your manual.

5) What if I’ve lost the locking-nut key?A tyre shop can remove locking nuts using special sockets, but it may take time/cost. Keep the key taped inside the boot panel or glove box.

Final Word: Confidence Comes From Preparation

Knowing how to change a tyre transforms a roadside emergency into a manageable task. With the right safety habits, a simple tool kit, and a clear process, you’ll be back on the road quickly and safely. Practice once at home, keep your gear organized, and remember: the safest tyre change happens in a safe location. When in doubt, call for help your safety comes first.